THE ANORAK FROM PAST TO PRESENT

The Greenlandic annoraaq, known worldwide as an anorak, is one of our ancient heritage garments that has provided us with protection when we most needed it. It is still with us today for celebrations, representing our culture or showing who we are. The anorak has always been and will remain our most iconic outdoor wear in Greenland. This is why we are paying tribute to the anorak, its heritage and the craft skills and traditions of our ancestors.

It is difficult to say exactly where and when the first anorak was created. But we have to go back several millennia, because it has been with us as long as the sled dog.

Anoraks were first described in the 1500s when Europeans came to Greenland. The written records from that time describe the men’s anorak as knee-length and with a flap in the middle on the front and back. The women’s anoraks, however were over-the-knee, allowing the wearer to sit down without getting snow inside their clothing. In the 1800s, anoraks were shortened to hip length, and began to be customised with personal details. During the 1920s–1940s, new textiles like cotton and nylon brought by trading vessels were used for making summer anoraks. The coloured anoraks were for everyday wear, while black versions, and later white ones, were for Sunday best and special occasions.

An advanced garment from the outset

Even the original version of the anorak was “hi-tech” for its time because of its high-performance features. The distinctive design with no zip or button openings retained body heat, and protected the wearer from the Arctic climate. Equally, advanced production methods made the materials waterproof and windproof.

For windproofing, strips of seal or walrus intestines were dried and left to blanch white out in the cold, and then stitched to the anorak cuffs and neck opening as a windguard.

There was even a fully waterproofed version stitched from de-haired sealskin, which was greased with seal fat as an exceptional water-repellent finish. Meanwhile, the openings at the head and wrists were fastened by cords. This type of anorak was longer than the standard version, allowing it to be fastened tight to the kayak ‘cockpit’ and integrate as one with the kayak.

The combination of hide, fur and grease made these garments both insulating and waterproof long before the invention of modern textiles like Gore-Tex.

Women’s magical protection

Anorak production was women’s work, from flaying the animal, scraping and drying the hide, tanning, cutting out garment pieces, custom-fitting for the wearer, through to the production of sinew-thread, stitching, garment care and mending. But they also gave the anoraks added protection. To guard the wearer against invisible dangers in the wilderness, they sewed little amulets into the garments, the significance of which was known only to the woman and the wearer.

The anorak culture lives on

Although the anorak is an ancient garment in its design, many of its original details and features are still in use today.

This is why our anorak tradition is a great source of inspiration when we design new styles. Sealskin and furs have been replaced with modern textiles like PrimaLoft, merino wool and high-performance wind and waterproof materials. And we take pride in continuing to adapt the cut and fit refined by our ancestors over millennia. So our anoraks can stand up to the wilderness, daily wear and whatever’s out there.